Installing a 3 wire light switch




















Is this the correct way to control all 4 lights with one switch - wire all the red live wires from switch and www. Two lights between 3 way switches with the power feed via one of the 2 lights one switch diagram switches 2 lights line in through Two lights between 3 way switches with the power feed via one of the 2 way light switch with power feed via the light switch how to How do i add another light and switch without running new power Travelers how to wire a light switch Double switch wiring 2 lights wiring diagrams electrical Simple wiring diagram 2 lights 1 switch simple wiring diagram Multiple Light Wiring Diagram.

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Discover and save! I am trying to wire three lights to one switch. I have the correct wiring for the first light; however, when I wire the. I have the correct wiring for the first light; however, when I wire the - Answered by a verified Electrician www. Before you do anything, you will need to cut the power to the light switch. If you do not know which breaker feeds your switch, then just turn on the light and test each breaker until you find the one that turns off your lights.

Important — If you are replacing an existing switch, make sure that you take not of how it is wired before you remove the existing wires. See where the black and white wires are connected. If there are more wires for a three-way switch, then also keep track of where those were also connected. You will want to replicate that same wiring scheme when you install the new switch. First, know what gauge wire you are working with. It will either be 12 or 14 gauge wire.

The wire strippers should have a spot marked for each gauge wire. Next, bend the wire into a pig tail loop so that you can easily attach to the screws on the light switch. Your switch may have slots to push the wires straight into place rather than use the screws on the side. A standard single pole light switch will simply require you to attach the black load wire into it, and then the black wire leaving the switch and to your lights.

The switch serves to cut the power from reaching the light switch. The white or neutral wire bypasses the switch and goes straight to your lights. There should only be one screw left, and it is for that small, 6" free cable attached to the grounding wires.

Loop it around the screw and fasten it down like any other cable. Attach the black wire leading to the light to your general screw black. The wiring on the second switch is nearly identical to the first, except for this key difference: the black wire goes to the light, not to the power source. Attach the appropriate wires to your light fixture.

You should have a space for a neutral wire white , a grounding wire, orange or green and a power wire black.

They will screw on easily, and your light is set. Replace the covers for the switches, screw them into place, and turn the power back on to be in business. Part 3. Select the proper wire size.

If originating from an electric panel or fuse box, 12 copper is the minimum size when connecting to a 20 amp circuit breaker or fuse; 14 copper is the minimum size when connecting to a 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse aluminum wire on circuits of these capacities has been prohibited for many years.

The size of all the wires in any circuit must be the same size. When obtaining power from a nearby electrical outlet or another circuit device, the new wiring must be the same size as those that supply the outlet. Select the proper cable type. The power supply or feed cable should be "2 wire" or conductor cable plus a ground wire. See below for descriptions and uses of common cable types. Shut power off. This is a very important step.

Please do not skip it. Install a 2 wire cable between the power source outlet box, electric panel, etc and the first switch box. Leave 8—10 inches Connect the ground wire to the circuit ground wire s with a wire nut or other approved connection see How to Connect Electrical Wire.

The ground wire should be connected to the neutral terminal bar. If equipped with a separate ground bar, rather than connecting to the neutral terminal bar, the ground wire can connect to the ground terminal bar.

However, if all the existing ground wires connect to one bar and all the existing white wires connect to a different bar, maintaining separate ground and neutral connections is required.

Never introduce ground wire s to a terminal bar with only white or gray insulated wires connected or vice versa. If the power source is an electrical panel or fuse box, the cable should be cut at least long enough to reach the furthest termination point breaker or fuse, ground and neutral bar without the need of splicing. Install a 3 wire cable from the first switch box to the light fixture's box.

A 3 wire cable has an "extra" wire when compared to 2 wire cables, and this wire is nearly always covered in red insulation. This third wire is necessary for 3-way switch installations. Install a 3 wire cable from the second switch box to the light fixture's box. Connect ground wires, which is usually green. If the switch or junction box is metal, it too must be securely grounded with a green ground screw or approved grounding clip.

This must be done at each and every box that a cable enters and at each device that provides a termination point for ground. It is highly recommended that you complete these ground connections first, and then gently fold them into the rear of the box - out of the way - leaving only the shorter ground leads out for easy connection to devices. No ground connection is made to plastic, fiber or another non-conductive box. Connect feed wires in the first switch box. First, connect all ground wires as previously described.

The 2 wire cable feed from the power source enters the bottom of the switch box and the hot black wire connects to the common or shunt terminal on the 3-way switch. There is only one such terminal on a 3-way switch, and it is usually identified as the one having a different color terminal screw often significantly darker from the other two terminal screws not counting the green ground screw.

Connect the 3 wire cable's white insulated wire neutral directly to the 2 wire 'feed' white insulated neutral wire with wire nuts there is no connection of any white wires to this switch. Connect 3 wire cable in the first switch box. The 3 wire cable enters through the top of the first switch box. The red insulated wire connects to either one of the 2 unused terminal screws shown in the image above to be on the top left and right sides of both 3-way switches.

It does not matter to which terminal screw this wire is connected. Connect the black insulated wire to the remaining unused terminal screw on the switch.

Connect wires in the light fixture's box. Again, connect all ground wires as previously described, if not already completed. In the light fixture's box, there will be two 3 wire cables.

One 3 wire cable originates at the first switch box and has its white insulated wire as a neutral. The other 3 wire cable originates at the second switch box and will become the "switch leg". Mark both ends of this wire by wrapping it with black electrical tape to alert others working on the circuit later that it is no longer neutral.

Connect the two red insulated wires together with a wire nut. Connect the black wire coming from the first 3-way switch and the white "switch leg" wire coming from the second 3-way switch has black tape wrapped around it together with a wire nut. Connect 3 wire cable in the second switch box to the switch. Connect all ground wires as previously described, if not already completed. Connect the black insulated wire to the shunt or common terminal screw of the switch once again, the common screw terminal is the different colored screw from the rest of those on the switch.

Connect the red insulated wire to one of the two unused terminal screws it does not matter which. Connect the "switch leg" white wire with black tape to the remaining unused terminal screw on the switch.

Connect the fixture. The green or grounding screw is attached to the bare copper or green wires. They are the grounding wires. The grounding screws are a new addition to the three-way switches. That is why you may not find them on older 3-way switches. Source: itectec. Then there are the traveler screws that are connected to the hot or charged wire.

These screws will provide two different paths for the electricity to travel to the fixture. Lastly, there is a common terminal that is darker in color than the traveler terminals.

It either connects to the hot wire that leads to the fixture or accepts the hot wire coming from the power source. The white wire coming straight from the power source goes uninterrupted into the light fixture while the hot wires are routed through the switches.

There are three significant ways in which 3-way switches can be set up depending on the position of the switches and lights and where the power enters the circuit. In the first case, we see if the wires from the power source enter one switch box at first, then go towards the light fixture and then to the other switch box. The white wire from the power source goes into the switch box first and then the light fixture.

It terminates there without going to the second switch box. The diagram below shows how we can wire the switch in a case like this. Source: brilliant. In another case, the wires from the power source may enter the light fixture box first, then it goes into one switch box and then the other.

In this type of wiring, the inbound white wire connects to the light fixture without any interruption. The black wire then connects to the taped white wire that goes from switch one and then connects to the common terminal in switch two. Red and black travelers then connect paired traveler terminals on both switches. Source: mariaelectricals. In the third case, the wires from the power source go from one switch to another, then the fixture.



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