This truck comes with the Traxxas TQ-3 2. Out of stock. Add to Cart. This item ships only to the As with other EZ Peak iD chargers, these are compatible This is the must-have set for all Traxxas owners. It is always good to have extra body clips around to keep your body securely fastened. These fit all of the. Set Includes:Straight Hex Drivers: 1.
With up to amps of output and the ability to operate the charger via Bluetooth from your iOS or Android device, this is the most powerful, most advanced charger ever from Traxxas! Traxxas iD Set Includes This is a replacement antenna tube. Antenna tubes are used to help secure and protect reciever antenna wires. The lower number of teeth on the spur gear, the faster the vehicle will be.
The higher the number of teeth, the more acceleration it will have. This set includes straight tip 1. Traxxas Stability Management TSM allows you to experience all the extreme power, speed, and acceleration The wireless module works with Android v4. Takes you through each stage of the set up, break in and tuning procedures.
Written by experts and engineers with years of experience. In stock now and ready for next day delivery! T Maxx 2. Nitro Monster Truck. Traxxas T Maxx Trx 2 5 Manual quisukmico. Home Best RC products. Traxxas T-Maxx 3. Find more of what you love on eBay stores! Shop Traxxas T-Maxx 2. Worldwide shipping available to over countries. Lots of aftermarket upgrades available on BoomRacingRC. All the manuals online for the are. When T-Maxx launched onto the scene a whole new world of RC driving possibilities emerged.
Contact Us T Maxx 2. Shop with confidence. Am I missing something? Let Dollar Hobbyz keep you on the road with authentic replacement parts. REVO 2. REVO 3. REVO Platinum. Nowadays we are delighted to declare that we have discovered an incredibly interesting topic to be discussed, namely traxxas t maxx parts diagram. The graphics that Traxxas can put on their pre-painted bodies are truly amazing and like all Prographix bodies, the body and graphics are impervious to fuel and very durable, so your new T-Maxx body will stay looking new for a long time.
Thicker 3mm Chassis - An extra 0. This extra strength prevents changes in gear mesh, and offers more precise suspension response. The T6 aluminum chassis plate is also anodized blue. Strengthened Turnbuckles - The steering and rear toe links are replaced with larger 3. These new turnbuckles are beefy and should stand up to the extra punishment that the TRX 2.
Traxxas also took the guesswork out of adjusting the new turnbuckles. Turning the rod ends all the way down to the stops on the shaft provides correct stock alignment once installed on the truck. You can then adjust the rod ends for more toe-in.
Replacement shafts now come pre-assembled. Stronger drive shafts also means less flex and more positive power to the wheels quicker response. Another notable feature of these shafts is that they only key into each other "in phase", which eliminates the possibility of assembling the shafts "out of phase". Out of phase driveshafts can cause the axles to wobble slightly at high RPM robbing the truck of speed. Of course all of these newly designed components and upgrades will be available individually so anyone can transform their first generation T-Maxx into a stronger, faster, wider and newer looking 4wd off-road machine.
The basic layout, size and weight of the T-Maxx remains the same which is great for those of you with investments in after market performance and appearance accessories. So what is so special about the T-Maxx's new suspension? How about over an extra inch of track width 14mm each side! This truck is mega-stable. Blazing over large mogels, whoops and washboard sections out at the track is even easier than before.
There are four shock positions on the lower suspension arms and three shock positions on the shock tower. Caster is also adjustable on the front suspension giving the new T-Maxx greater adjustment capabilities than any other monster truck on the market.
Flipping the truck over in the middle of a turn is a thing of the past. The first generation T-Maxx could be dialed-in to work very well around most tracks, but sometimes the truck would lift a little in tight corners coming off of the straightaway. In high bite conditions this could happen in other sections of the track as well.
Not only does the extra inch of track width keep the truck very stable throughout the whole course, but coupled with the wide array of shock mount positions there is not a situation this racer can think of, that this new truck can't handle. The new Maxx suspension allows faster entrance and exit speeds in the corners and also through the very rough portions of the track, a characteristic that is essential with a very powerful engine such as the TRX 2.
Best of all, when you're done racing, you can adjust back to the traditional Maxx plush feel and suspension travel for bashing and jumping etc. You can't do that with aftermarket wide arms kits. Tuning the new suspension system on the T-Maxx is an easy task. Traxxas really out did themselves with the new page color T-Maxx instruction manual. This has got to be the most informative manual that I've ever seen from not only an RTR model, but also any RC model kit manual that I've read.
For general "bashing" around and most surfaces that you'll encounter just playing around, climbing hills and plowing over rocks, the stock set-up works great 2 pos. A on the shock tower. This will lower your center of gravity and decrease chassis roll in the corners for excellent handling while retaining insane cornering speeds. The beauty of this new suspension is that you no longer need to tear down your shocks every time that you want to change the down travel of the suspension arms or the feel of the dampening rate at the wheels.
Just change to the appropriate shock mounting position and get back out there. This system just makes it a whole lot easier and provides more options. Here are a few suspension tech tips for those who are interested in dialing in their new T-Maxx' suspension.
Shock Position -- There are four mounting positions for the shocks on the lower front and rear suspension arms of T-Maxx. The outside holes make the suspension more progressive as it is compressed. This will give the truck a little bit of a firmer feel. The inside holes allow a little more chassis role in the corners. Keep in mind that using the outside shock mounting positions also changes the down travel of the arms and lowers the ride height. Changing the upper mounting positions to the outside holes will add a firmer spring rate feel to the wheels, but will take away some dampening faster compression and rebound.
Note that the inner position on the shock tower pos. Caster -- Caster is the angle of the axis that the front hub carriers pivot on when looking at the side of the chassis. Positive caster will allow more weight to remain up front when cornering. This will provide more steering. Positive caster will also increase negative camber through a corner. Typically, more negative camber will equal more traction, thus more steering. To adjust front caster you simply move the caster spacers that are located on the upper suspension pins.
By placing the spacers to the rear of the arm you are adding more caster and you should get more steering from the truck. By placing the spacers toward the front you reduce the caster and will take some steering out of the truck.
This usually makes the truck a little more controllable and less sensitive out of the corners. If you're just starting out and you're having trouble controlling a truck that has too much steering, start with all of the shims placed to the front of the arm then move one shim at a time, from each side, back to the rear as you need more steering. Ride Height -- Ride height is adjusted by adding or taking away spring pre-load spacers. Do not use the length of the shock to set ride height.
Using the length of the shock to set ride height minimizes or can even eliminate down travel making a very twitchy and unpredictable truck. Also, do not use extra pre-load spacers to give the shock a firmer feel. Arms stock height. If you want to firm up the suspension then use a firmer spring or the outer shock mounting positions on the lower arms. Pre-load spacers are only used for adjusting ride height. Generally it is best to run the chassis as low as you can but still be able to negotiate the bumps and jumps on the track.
Smooth surfaces will allow lower ride height settings and bumpy tracks will need a higher stance. Ride height is checked with the truck on a flat smooth surface. Arms level Racing. Push down on the front and rear of the truck at the same time and allow the shocks to rebound the truck to its set ride height. For racing a good starting point is when the truck rebounds to where the front and rear suspension arms are level.
You can run the rear up a little higher than the front for more steering into the corners. I hope that this sheds some light on a few of the suspension adjustments. The T-Maxx has the most adjustable and plush suspension system of any monster truck on the market. Remember not to make many different adjustments at one time. You may not get the desired result and it would be difficult to tell which adjustment needed to be changed back. For a beginner it can be helpful to make a large change to just one area of the suspension to see how exactly that particular adjustment changed the handling of the truck.
After getting a better understanding of how the changes effect the handling of he truck, then it is better to make small changes out at the track. Stay tuned to Traxxas. I started prepping the T-Maxx for its first run by charging a 7.
After gluing the tires and installing the transmitter and receiver batteries into the radio system, I proceeded to perform a systems check on all of the servos and radio gear. Everything checked out great so I headed out to the parking lot.
This is the best and most consistent fuel that I've used. I've also been racing with this fuel for several years now in my on-road and off-road vehicles with great success. It provides the perfect mix of power, consistency and cooling for the engine. After installing the 7. The truck started up fine and sputtered a little, then died.
The Texas heat was blazing like it usually does in the middle of the summer, and the humidity was also a little on the high side. This type of weather condition contains less dense air meaning that there is less oxygen in the air. This creates a rich mixture. I leaned the high-speed mixture a little as instructed by the handy little tuning card that came wrapped around the fuel tank.
This little card is going to be a lifesaver to many people out there. It's small enough to fit in your wallet and is very informative. The engine fired back up and held a good steady idle.
The break-in procedure for the new TRX 2. Before, just putting around the parking lot back and forth for four tanks was the standard procedure.
Well, the Traxxas engineers actually put their great minds together in coming up with a break-in procedure for the TRX 2.
I won't bore you with "play by play" commentary of my break-in experience, but I will say that the engine ran great and actually produces a lot of power at such a rich break-in setting so don't get carried away during your break-in process. Carefully breaking in the engine by the instructions will give you the most power available from the engine and will ensure long life of the piston and sleeve.
I must note that while trying to start the engine after the fourth tank I ran into some trouble keeping the engine running.
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